Water into Wine

Semana Santa (Holy Week) here was definitely an oasis in the desert. After almost a month with no day off, the end of March/beginning of April week finally came. Monday was a holiday, Tuesday and Wednesday we had school, and Thursday and Friday were vacation days as well. This being the case, Nikki and I planned a trip to Mendoza. (If you are unfamiliar with Mendoza, it's wine country. Enough said.)

We headed to the bus station in Retiro (again...) and waited for our lovely bus, which turned out to be not so lovely. We had a hell of a time trying to sleep on the way over, 15 hours turned into 17 with a storm and falling trees being the delay, but nonetheless we got to Mendoza and the day was beautiful. Out to lunch, we met two characters from Argentina, in their late 70s each of them. Over our first glass of wine in the city (Vasco Viejo 2010), we wined and dined. Our long conversation led that Thursday into the sunset and we strolled the streets of the pinned and buttoned-up stores along Avenida Espejo. Finding ourselves trudging along, we went back to the hostel to nap. I couldn't bring myself to nap, facing 45+ pages of physiology reading to do (which takes me an EXTREMELY long time, I won't deny), so I lollygagged over to Plaza Independencia right at the corner and found a spot in grass in plain sun. The fountain in front of me was delightful, but it kept getting me a wet with the tiniest droplets, so I would freeze. The sun was warm, but the air was cool.

Throughout the week that all dissipated and the heat came: the desert was amazing. Yes, the land is a desert, irrigated by man and made into this oasis of wine.

 The Andes as a backdrop^

So there was the desert. Nikki and I went on a bicycle tour of the many wineries found in Maipú. (Yes, there is the childish joke that we spent all day in Mai-pú. Think about it.) 

We rented bicycles from Maipú bikes, got a map, and hit the road. The first bodega (winery) we stumbled upon (rattled up to) was Historias y Sabores.

 Alquimia Red 90

 Post first taste

 First taste

There is where I tried absinthe with caramelized sugar. It was actually delicious. Very hot. But delicious. And probably very illegal to bring back. 100%. Almost like the alcohol content. We snacked on chocolates, olive spread and jellies, and grapes, all from that location. Simply splendid.

From there, at 11:30 AM we left and headed to the next winery: La Rural. This was a free tour and free tasting (1 glass), so naturally everybody and their mother was there. We dilly-dallied around that vineyard a bit; the tour was oversized and you couldn't hear anything so we did our own thing. Tried some Museo Cabernet Sauvignon which was rather potent but paired with a great pasta or steak would have been prime.

 (What they used to crush the grapes with, remember from the cartoons with people smashing the grapes??)

We left soon after, feeling good about the sunny day and clear skies: worries are back in Buenos Aires. Here is the oasis, where water is turned to wine. 

A long ride and very small bodega later, we were sampling our choice of wine at Viña el Cerno. I was browsing the comments previous tourists had written in the winery's book, my eye caught the wine Temperanillo. I was sold. The writer said "viva el Temperanillo." That was all it took. And it was the best. I wanted to buy a bottle, but unfortunately I didn't think it would do so hot with the rickety road we were driving on and I had to take so much home (going through Retiro and riding the train is risky with many belongings - you can be easily stolen from. That wine was NOT about to be stolen: my heart would have been broken. So I chose to leave it as a beautiful memory.)

From the small winery that doesn't ship their wine anywhere (because they produce so little they couldn't keep a store like a grocery store supplied), we biked like this 

the whole time until we came upon the most stunning winery yet: Mavi Bodega. 

 2010 • 2006 • 2010

We departed Mevi for el restaurante Di Tommaso. It was a winery and had tours and tastings, but we were feeling satisfied with our wine consumption for the time being, especially that we had about 10 km to ride back to the bike rental place. We dined royally and finished our chicken lunch/dinner off with this: warm brownie and dulce de leche ice cream.

Rolling back to Maipú bikes, we decided it was time to head home, but not before saying "bye" to Max (from Dr. Seuss' the Grinch).

We caught the 10 back to town and hung around town a bit more, met up with some friends, and had a ball.

The desert is not barren, it gives fruit for the drink of life, and man enjoys of it when the oasis is found.

Angela